Soooo, this post has been a long time coming. In fact I started this post back in September… 🙈 good thing I added photos and made some notes when I started the draft!
After the first muslin of the bodice there were a couple of things that needed altering before the second muslin. The number one priority was an adjustment to get rid of the gape in the neckline.
While I was wearing the first muslin I pinned neckline to get rid of the gape so I’d know how much I needed to adjust. It worked out at about 1/2 an inch on both sides.
I used a tutorial I found on Craftsy to create a dart in the pattern piece, and then trued up the neckline curve. It does seem a little counter-intuitive to create a dart to reduce fabric, then adding more to true up the neckline, but it works. ✂️✂️
After I’d made the adjustment to the neckline I redrafted the bodice facing pattern piece so that it matched the shape of the adjusted neckline
Time for bodice muslin number two… this time complete with collar and facings… I followed the construction instructions for the pattern to make up the collar and facing. Fully lining it means that the construction sequence will be totally different, but the using the pattern sequence for this muslin version… and not bad… 👍🏻
Doing that adjustment has raised the neckline enough and eliminated the gape. Adding the facing and the collar seems to have resolved where the shoulder seams sits – which is good.
The only issue – is this pooling/ weird folding thing happening at the nape of my neck. I had this happen when I made the Lenox Shirtdress, and I kinda made up a fix, by scooping out the neckline on the yoke, and messing with the collar. This time I wanted to find out what the proper adjustment was, so consulted with the almighty Google.
Turns out what I needed was a square shoulder adjustment – and the blog post I found at that link gave me a slash/ pivot method for doing the adjustment rather than messing with the neckline. I pinned out the amount of pooling/ folding that I wanted to get rid of and used that as the amount to pivot – it was almost an inch!
I decided not too do a third muslin of the bodice, but to make the adjustments to the skirt pattern pieces, and to muslin the whole dress as the next step.
It’s not a secret anymore that these wrap dresses are going to be the bridesmaid dresses for my sister’s wedding in April. 👰I’m making mine at the moment, and will be starting the fittings for the other bridesmaids soon. 🎉