Finished Projects, Sewing

Happiness is…

Finished a new Upton Skirt, and I'm so in love I'm going to wear it tomorrow, even though I haven't gotten around to making a solid pink top yet and will have to wear this teal top.

I've loved this fabric for ages and originally bought some to make a top that ended up being an utter disaster. Even though I bought the fabric that first time to be a wearable muslin I fell it love with it as I was working on the shirt and was devastated when the shirt didn't turn out and I couldn't find more of the fabric the next time I went to the store.

I'm not sure what it is about the fabric, it just makes me happy looking at it 😁😍

I looked out for it every time I visited after that and about a month later I scored, and there it was!

I bought all of what was left on the only bolt of it in stock on the spot, and with some creative piecing of the waistband (which I'm trying not to let annoy me, because it's very noticeable to me) I managed to squeeze this Upton Skirt out of 2.6m… and let me tell you there is not a bit left – I managed to get just enough bias tape out of the off cuts to enclose all the seams and bind the hem 👊🏻😎

Adjustments, Sewing

The miracle of the perfect fit the first time!

Christine Haynes of City Stitching has just released her latest pattern, the Varda top and dress. It's a nice blend between shift and sheath with classic french darts giving it some gentle shaping.

I'm a long time fan of Christine's Emery Dress pattern, I have *goes to count*, uh-hem, 34 of them 🙊😳🙈, ok, so that's a lot…

When I saw the technical drawings for this new pattern I was very interested – I've got a top pattern with french darts in it that I hacked down from a dress that I make and wear all the time, so I knew I liked the shape, and I liked the option of sleeveless if I wanted to go that way. I've made up View B for now, and will probably try out A and C at some point soon.

I'm right at the very top end of the size range in this pattern, as in my high bust measurement is the same as the bust measurement for the largest size of the pattern, so I knew I'd need to do a significant full bust adjustment right off.

Because I also usually need to grade up the hips of most patterns, I do that by just using the added width from the full bust adjustment all the way down to the hem line. Only very rarely do I need to grade up any further (I think I've only had that happen once out of all the patterns I've adjusted), and I never have to grade the waist down at all…

I did some research into dart rotations before I started the full bust adjustment. I'd never tried it before and I wanted to do something about reducing some of that I knew was going to become an enormous french dart once I'd added the 2.5 inch full bust adjustment!! But… I also didn't want to detract from the clean and simple lines of the garment by adding shoulder pleats or a traditional bust dart…

I settled on rotating an inch from the french dart up to the armscye, and while an inch doesn't sound like much when you just added a 2.5 FBA and made the french dart so big you could probably have driven a truck through, it did the trick!

There was some serious stick tape and guesstimating voodoo going on to work out exactly where I was going where to draft that armscye dart! But when I taped the paper together to close the dart and tried it 'on' it seemed to have worked, so I proceeded to cut out my muslin and get on with it!


Look at that fit!! The print of the fabric means you can't really even see the darts, but believe me, they're there.

I made the pattern up exactly according to the instructions until I got to inserting the zipper, and I even got as far as pinning one side of the invisible zip in before I remembered that sometimes apple-shaped people like me can get away without centre back zips in some styles.

I'll be honest, this has never been the case for me before, and I was highly sceptical that it would work this time, but I figured that it was worth a shot – if I could make these tops without needing to use expensive invisible zips, I was all for it. So I pinned the back seam allowance closed, half pinned in zipper and all, and tried the shirt on, miracle of miracles it fit! And it was looking good!! I removed that half pinned invisible zip quick smart and stitched the back seam closed.

The back darts meant no need for any swayback adjustment on this pattern – hurray!

I've since made another one in a solid colour (finally something to wear with the skirts!). You can see the darts on this plainer version, but I think you'll agree that the added armscye dart doesn't detract from the original design style of the shirt, and I think it certainly helps with the fit!!

Monthly Roundup, Sewing

Make Roundup – July 2017

It’s the end of July and I thought I’d do a post with a round up of everything I made this month. I didn’t realise how much I got done!!

  1. Style Arc Amber Top – new pattern
  2. Grainline Morris Blazer – new pattern, managed to make this twice in the same month!
  3. Seamworks Delavan – repeat make
  4. Cashmerette Harrison Shirt – repeat make
  5. Style Arc Candice Skirt – new pattern
  6. Christine Haynes Varda Top – new pattern
  7. Grainline Morris Blazer – repeat make.
Finished Projects, Sewing

Let’s Meet for Brunch

This is my take on the Style Arc Candice skirt. Excuse the severe pattern clashing, solid colour tops are on the make list and rising rapidly to the top of it!!

It's quite similar in style to the Upton Skirt, the primary difference is that in the pattern the pleats are stitched down for 5 inches from the waistband.

I wasn't entirely convinced that I'd be able to sit down in a skirt with pleats stitched down that far, so it tried pinning the pleats of my Upton Skirt down that far and trying it on. Turns out my suspicion was correct – the skirt looked weird on even while standing and sitting was an issue. So, on my version of the skirt I didn't stitch the pleats down.

The size of the pattern pieces for this skirt mean you either have to use 150cm wide fabric, or run it down 112cm wide quilting cotton – it's too wide to fit selvage to selvage on quilting cotton. Although this makes it perfect for full width border prints which is what I used for this one!

The only other adjustment I made to this skirt was to lengthen the waistband just a little and make the pleats just a fraction shallower. These were primarily driven by laziness and not wanting to be bothered with cutting out and sticking together the 40-something pages required to go to the next size up, when 5 minutes of messing around did the trick.

This is probably only the downside of buying Style Arc patterns from their Etsy store – you get 3 sizes of the pattern, but they're not nested in the same file so grading between sizes either requires another round with the scissors and tape or eyeballing it… eyeballing it won 🙄 ✂️

Now I really need to make some of those solid coloured tops – this skirt needs to be out and about… the guys at work are going to love it! 😎

Finished Projects, Sewing

Halden, the Harrison Shirt 

Finished my latest Harrison Shirt yesterday, the one I started because I pulled a pattern name out of a hat (plastic container… potato, potahto).

It got its name from the alias of one of the main characters of the TV show I was watching this week while I was making it. I wonder if anyone will be able to work it out… 🤔😉

This print is probably my favourite. I always feel happy when I wear the dress I already have in it. I also have enough of it for a Lenox Shirtdress, and if I lay everything out right, hopefully an Upton Skirt as well. If planning to have four different things made in the same fabric isn't a sign that you like the fabric, I'm not sure what is!!

This is the second Harrison I've made, it's a 22G/H graded to a 24 through the waist and hips, although I've removed some of the grading from the front princess panels – I don't think it needs it. It's a size bigger than my measurements would indicate, but after I'd made a muslin I decided I wanted more ease all over so I sized up.

Through the course of making this shirt I've decided that I need to lower the bust fullness. It's almost impossible to tell in the photos (yay for bold prints) but there is some 'bubbling' in the princess seam above where my Full Bust is… which is a telltale sign of the pattern bust fullness sitting too high. I notice it every time I look down, and it annoys me, so I'm doing something about it.

Using the info I found on Curvy Sewing Collective about lowering the bust fullness on princess seams, I've adjusted my pattern, lowering the fullness point by an inch. We'll see whether that does the trick the next time a Harrison comes up in the make list!

I used grey thread for everything except the buttons and buttonholes, for them I chose pink, as a bit of a highlight.

I use bias binding on all of my seams as I don't have an overlooked/ serger. I had enough matching bias tape left over from the dress I made in the same fabric to do the bottom hem, so all of the internal seams were done in a contrasting but complementary binding.

One of the things I love about these shirts are is the opportunity to play with some contrasting elements. I often used to buy RTW button downs from Thomas Cook & Sons, and those shirts always used contrasting fabrics (usually pattern clashing to the extreme) for the under collar, inner collar stand, inside yolk, inner cuff and under placket, and even sometimes the inside button band. I always liked that design element and decided when I started making my own button down shirts that I'd make a point of doing that too 😍 so fun!

Next up – my first attempt at the Style Arc Candice skirt.

Finished Projects, Sewing

Did I just make myself a Bed Jacket??

It wasn’t until I’d pretty much finished this make, and was thinking about what it actually was, based on how I’m going to wear it, that it twigged that perhaps I was indeed making a Bed Jacket, a quick google search confirmed it – yup I’ve officially made myself a Bed Jacket.

I wanted something to wear around the house in the evenings in winter. I don’t tend to wear a lot with long sleeves and my house is fully tiled downstairs, so it can be quite chilly on nights I don’t light the fire.

I will admit that ‘chilly’ is a relative term, temps don’t often drop to single digits (centigrade!) where I live, but it is cool enough for Aliyah to be burrowing in her blankets and for me to be looking for an extra layer for around the house.


The pattern for this Jacket is the Seamworks Delavan, and this is the second time I’ve made this one. The first time I made it I was looking for a cardigan-y type thing to throw on at the office. I made a straight size 22, and chose my size based on my full bust size thinking that I wouldn’t mind it being roomy and drape-y, but it turned out too roomy and too drape-y for what I wanted.


I reprinted the pattern at a size 18, did a 1.5 inch full bust adjustment (rotating the created bust dart fullness back to the waist dart), and shortened the jacked by 1.5 inches,  and was planning to make it again in a few colours – including navy with mustard binding, hmmmm… However, before I actually got around to making more of them, I fell in love with the Morris Blazer, tried it out (last weekend) and I have decided that I’ll be making variations of it instead of variations of this Delavan. I figured I’d make up this one out of this delicious soft flanelette, because I already had the fabric and the adjusted pattern, but I’ll probably be retiring this pattern for now, and make lots more Morris Blazers.

Finished Projects, Sewing

Finished Morris Blazer!

 

I’ve been on the hunt for a jacket to wear at the office during the day. I wear my lovely Luzerne Trench coats for my travel to and from the office but they’re a bit much for wearing around the office.

A couple of years ago I found and bought this RTW jacket – its from Jacqui-e – but my bust is bigger than it was designed for, so it’s never really fit quite right. I’ve worn it – a lot – but have always been looking for something that fit better.


Enter the Morris Blazer…

This pattern had been on my radar for a while but I’d somewhat dismissed it as a candidate because it was designed for ‘stretch’ fabrics, and to me that meant knits, which I knew wasn’t really the look I was going for.

Then Meg McCarthy posted about her cotton sateen version of the Morris Blazer, and this pattern immediately jumped to to very top of the possible contenders list – meaning I bought and printed the pattern the same day, and bought fabric for a tester version that weekend… 

I had a few things I needed to make before this Blazer (i.e. pajamas to replace the ones that pretty much disintegrated in front of my eyes) and I had planned to make pants this weekend not this jacket, but I left my pants pattern printouts in the print queue on Friday afternoon, so Morris Blazer it was!


I did a full bust adjustment straight off before cutting the fabric, but through the course of making the tester I had to do a full bicep adjustment (thank goodness for buying too much fabric – I had enough left over to recut the sleeves!) and quite a bit of messing around with the armscye to get it big enough.

Honestly, those sleeves must have gone on and off 3 times before the armscye fit right 😳😳, much time was spent with my friendly seam ripper!! 

However the persistence and the time was totally worth it. I have a wearable jacket in my absolute favourite colour, and I have an adjusted pattern for next time! Hurrah!!! 

And I already have some delicious floral cotton sateen from Spotlight that was earmarked for another project, but I think it may have found its destiny in becoming a Morris Blazer.


Now to decide what to make next from my list… maybe I should just collect those pants pattern printouts and embark on my biggest fitting challenge yet – dress pants…