Adjustments, Sewing

The miracle of the perfect fit the first time!

Christine Haynes of City Stitching has just released her latest pattern, the Varda top and dress. It's a nice blend between shift and sheath with classic french darts giving it some gentle shaping.

I'm a long time fan of Christine's Emery Dress pattern, I have *goes to count*, uh-hem, 34 of them 🙊😳🙈, ok, so that's a lot…

When I saw the technical drawings for this new pattern I was very interested – I've got a top pattern with french darts in it that I hacked down from a dress that I make and wear all the time, so I knew I liked the shape, and I liked the option of sleeveless if I wanted to go that way. I've made up View B for now, and will probably try out A and C at some point soon.

I'm right at the very top end of the size range in this pattern, as in my high bust measurement is the same as the bust measurement for the largest size of the pattern, so I knew I'd need to do a significant full bust adjustment right off.

Because I also usually need to grade up the hips of most patterns, I do that by just using the added width from the full bust adjustment all the way down to the hem line. Only very rarely do I need to grade up any further (I think I've only had that happen once out of all the patterns I've adjusted), and I never have to grade the waist down at all…

I did some research into dart rotations before I started the full bust adjustment. I'd never tried it before and I wanted to do something about reducing some of that I knew was going to become an enormous french dart once I'd added the 2.5 inch full bust adjustment!! But… I also didn't want to detract from the clean and simple lines of the garment by adding shoulder pleats or a traditional bust dart…

I settled on rotating an inch from the french dart up to the armscye, and while an inch doesn't sound like much when you just added a 2.5 FBA and made the french dart so big you could probably have driven a truck through, it did the trick!

There was some serious stick tape and guesstimating voodoo going on to work out exactly where I was going where to draft that armscye dart! But when I taped the paper together to close the dart and tried it 'on' it seemed to have worked, so I proceeded to cut out my muslin and get on with it!


Look at that fit!! The print of the fabric means you can't really even see the darts, but believe me, they're there.

I made the pattern up exactly according to the instructions until I got to inserting the zipper, and I even got as far as pinning one side of the invisible zip in before I remembered that sometimes apple-shaped people like me can get away without centre back zips in some styles.

I'll be honest, this has never been the case for me before, and I was highly sceptical that it would work this time, but I figured that it was worth a shot – if I could make these tops without needing to use expensive invisible zips, I was all for it. So I pinned the back seam allowance closed, half pinned in zipper and all, and tried the shirt on, miracle of miracles it fit! And it was looking good!! I removed that half pinned invisible zip quick smart and stitched the back seam closed.

The back darts meant no need for any swayback adjustment on this pattern – hurray!

I've since made another one in a solid colour (finally something to wear with the skirts!). You can see the darts on this plainer version, but I think you'll agree that the added armscye dart doesn't detract from the original design style of the shirt, and I think it certainly helps with the fit!!

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Muslins, Sewing

Most things don’t work perfectly the first time…

Unlike last week when my first go at the Varda Top worked perfectly, adjustments and all, I finished my first go the Style Arc Emily Skirt the other night, and I don't love it…

But then when I line it up with my other recent skirt makes I don't mind having a different shape skirt in my collection, so I don't exactly hate it either…

I made a straight size 24 with no alterations for this first time, and it's close enough to right that I'm calling it wearable (around the house at least 😉) but it could be better…

I'm going to make something else (maybe a couple of something elses) from my list and then come back to this skirt for another go.

I either need to go up a size or do a full tummy adjustment (that'll be interesting with all the origami pleats 😳) to stop the gape-y pocket that's going on at the moment.

I want to reduce the width (height) of the waistband to get it down away from my bust and back closer to my waist!

I also want to somehow make the skirt a couple of inches longer so that it finishes just below the knee. I think that will help with the tapered look it's supposed to have.

Monthly Roundup, Sewing

Make Roundup – July 2017

It’s the end of July and I thought I’d do a post with a round up of everything I made this month. I didn’t realise how much I got done!!

  1. Style Arc Amber Top – new pattern
  2. Grainline Morris Blazer – new pattern, managed to make this twice in the same month!
  3. Seamworks Delavan – repeat make
  4. Cashmerette Harrison Shirt – repeat make
  5. Style Arc Candice Skirt – new pattern
  6. Christine Haynes Varda Top – new pattern
  7. Grainline Morris Blazer – repeat make.
Finished Projects, Sewing

Let’s Meet for Brunch

This is my take on the Style Arc Candice skirt. Excuse the severe pattern clashing, solid colour tops are on the make list and rising rapidly to the top of it!!

It's quite similar in style to the Upton Skirt, the primary difference is that in the pattern the pleats are stitched down for 5 inches from the waistband.

I wasn't entirely convinced that I'd be able to sit down in a skirt with pleats stitched down that far, so it tried pinning the pleats of my Upton Skirt down that far and trying it on. Turns out my suspicion was correct – the skirt looked weird on even while standing and sitting was an issue. So, on my version of the skirt I didn't stitch the pleats down.

The size of the pattern pieces for this skirt mean you either have to use 150cm wide fabric, or run it down 112cm wide quilting cotton – it's too wide to fit selvage to selvage on quilting cotton. Although this makes it perfect for full width border prints which is what I used for this one!

The only other adjustment I made to this skirt was to lengthen the waistband just a little and make the pleats just a fraction shallower. These were primarily driven by laziness and not wanting to be bothered with cutting out and sticking together the 40-something pages required to go to the next size up, when 5 minutes of messing around did the trick.

This is probably only the downside of buying Style Arc patterns from their Etsy store – you get 3 sizes of the pattern, but they're not nested in the same file so grading between sizes either requires another round with the scissors and tape or eyeballing it… eyeballing it won 🙄 ✂️

Now I really need to make some of those solid coloured tops – this skirt needs to be out and about… the guys at work are going to love it! 😎

planning, Sewing

My journey of Skirt

As you can see from my recent fabric shopping haul I'm on something of a skirt journey at the moment. I haven't worn skirts for years, I was convinced they didn't suit me. I think mainly because I was always buying and wearing skirts like these…


In fact I've made View C of that pattern and it has languished in my wardrobe for over a year and never been worn – it's now in the 'donate pile' to see if it belongs in someone else's life.

Clearly yoked skirts that are form-fitting down to the hips then flare out with any kind of volume are just a no-go on me 🙅🏼🙅🏼

During my wardrobe planning exercise back in May (away for work with no sewing machine – I bought a LOT of patterns 🙊) I challenged myself to work out what I wanted in a skirt and to find at least one pattern that ticked my boxes…

Much time spent was trawling Pinterest, Google image search and Instagram before I settled on a the design elements I wanted in my skirt:

  • Waistband to sit at my high waist, but not so high it was empire.
  • Pockets (naturally 💁🏼)
  • Box pleats
  • Zip waist not elastic.

Once I'd worked out what I was looking for it actually wasn't as hard to find patterns that ticked the boxes.

First up – the Upton Skirt hack. How convenient that I'd already picked the Upton as my 'Woven Sleeveless Dress', and the hack didn't involve purchasing any more pattern pieces, just the download of some instructions from the Cashmerette Blog (well done, economical me!).

My next find was the Style Arc Candice, which surprise, surprise is very similar to the Upton Skirt, but with less volume, and stitched down pleats.

And last but not least (for now, anyway) is the Style Arc Emily. Not at all what I thought I'd find when I started my skirt hunt, but it ticks all the design boxes, and I'm interested to see how making it up goes – the front panel looks like it may require a Masters Degree in Origami to get right…


Challenge Accepted 👊🏻

Finished Projects, Sewing

Halden, the Harrison Shirt 

Finished my latest Harrison Shirt yesterday, the one I started because I pulled a pattern name out of a hat (plastic container… potato, potahto).

It got its name from the alias of one of the main characters of the TV show I was watching this week while I was making it. I wonder if anyone will be able to work it out… 🤔😉

This print is probably my favourite. I always feel happy when I wear the dress I already have in it. I also have enough of it for a Lenox Shirtdress, and if I lay everything out right, hopefully an Upton Skirt as well. If planning to have four different things made in the same fabric isn't a sign that you like the fabric, I'm not sure what is!!

This is the second Harrison I've made, it's a 22G/H graded to a 24 through the waist and hips, although I've removed some of the grading from the front princess panels – I don't think it needs it. It's a size bigger than my measurements would indicate, but after I'd made a muslin I decided I wanted more ease all over so I sized up.

Through the course of making this shirt I've decided that I need to lower the bust fullness. It's almost impossible to tell in the photos (yay for bold prints) but there is some 'bubbling' in the princess seam above where my Full Bust is… which is a telltale sign of the pattern bust fullness sitting too high. I notice it every time I look down, and it annoys me, so I'm doing something about it.

Using the info I found on Curvy Sewing Collective about lowering the bust fullness on princess seams, I've adjusted my pattern, lowering the fullness point by an inch. We'll see whether that does the trick the next time a Harrison comes up in the make list!

I used grey thread for everything except the buttons and buttonholes, for them I chose pink, as a bit of a highlight.

I use bias binding on all of my seams as I don't have an overlooked/ serger. I had enough matching bias tape left over from the dress I made in the same fabric to do the bottom hem, so all of the internal seams were done in a contrasting but complementary binding.

One of the things I love about these shirts are is the opportunity to play with some contrasting elements. I often used to buy RTW button downs from Thomas Cook & Sons, and those shirts always used contrasting fabrics (usually pattern clashing to the extreme) for the under collar, inner collar stand, inside yolk, inner cuff and under placket, and even sometimes the inside button band. I always liked that design element and decided when I started making my own button down shirts that I'd make a point of doing that too 😍 so fun!

Next up – my first attempt at the Style Arc Candice skirt.

Stash

So, last Saturday I bought fabric, again…

I swear, I was only going to look at batting to work out what I needed to get for when the Haptic Labs quilt kits arrive. I had decided that I was also, maybe, going to get a border print of some description to make my muslin of the Style Arc Candice skirt interesting, but that was going to be it!

Until I walked in the door… 🙈🙊

The shelves at the front of the quilting cotton section were filled with newly-in Birch Fabrics including the delightful Dolfun print, and the moment I spotted them I knew I was pretty much sunk.

I need to explain (and I promise I’m not using it as an excuse!). I do 99% of my fabric shopping at East Coast Fabrics. They’re a Fabric Clearance Centre, and there a 4 of them across Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast. My local store is Lawnton, and I’m not sure what it says about me and my shopping habits, but all the ladies there know me, and ask about my projects… Because they’re a Clearance Centre it’s quite possible for them to sell out of a particular fabric and it be gone, never to be back again between one visit and the next. So, when I see anything I love I get it, because I’ve been caught before seeing something newly in and thinking I’d be able to get it next time, and then it be gone for good… 😢😢

All of that is to say I bought fabric… a lot of fabric… and they are now all washed and sitting on the ‘ironing chair’ (that’s a thing, right?) ready to be ironed tomorrow and added to the stash, each with their destiny already determined (mostly). There may or may not be a theme.

Clockwise from the top left these will end up being: Candice skirt (muslin, this is the only piece of fabric I was supposed to buy!), Upton Skirt, Upton Dress and an Amber Top.


Again, clockwise from the top left: Candice skirt (won’t be as full, they didn’t have quite enough yardage left, but that was it, all gone), Upton Skirt, Maven French Dart Shift (or if I can manage it in the amount of fabric I have, the short sleeve top version of Christine Haynes new Varda pattern), and an Emery Dress.


Maven French Dart Shift or hopefully a Varda (this will actually probably be what I use for the muslin of that new pattern), Candice Skirt, two Emery Dresses – orange print outside/ teal lining, and a pink bodice/ cherry blossom skirt version, and last but not least, another Upton Skirt.


If you guessed that the theme of this trip was skirts, then you would be 100% correct…

Much as I love wandering the aisles and being inspired by all the pretty fabrics, I think I’m banning myself from East Coast this weekend – I do not need to add anymore to the stash! And besides, I want to finish the Harrison I started last weekend (just cuffs, buttonholes and buttons to go!), and start the muslin of the Candice Skirt – can’t wait to wear a breakfast themed skirt 😂 that’ll be a first for me!!